Middle East Trip 2003: Syria | Lebanon | Jordan | Palestine The Palestinian-Israeli conflict Travelogue
Day 04 - Damascus
23-09-2003
We woke up late with the hope of to have a more quiet day than yesterday (without arrests). Our target was to end the visit the attractions more important of Damascus : the great umayyad mosque and the damascene houses. We had breakfast abundantly in the hotel before the romm change.
The new room have great views of the Old City, but the rest of the room is regular. The bed is king-size, but the shower is austere and have a pair of gum shoes to avoid slide. The most funny is not even are of the same size. We took a taxi to the souq, very near of the mosque for 50 SYP.

In the walk through the souq we met with Alí, our trip fellow of the day before, who was very pleased to met with us. He said us he recover his luggage, we got happy about it. He didn't know to explain us how he solved it, but surely the taxi driver tried communicate with he before to return to Amman. He said goodbye to us with a strong handshake.

To enter inside the great umayyad mosque Yolanda must pay 50 SYP in order to rent a tunic. It's rented in a room closed to Salah ad-Din shrine, near the north door. When she went to pay the man misbehaved with her (perhaps due to be foreing?) throwing the coins in the table. In everywhere there are fools...
Salah ad-Din Shrine
Women must cover their head and wear a wrap-around cloak and shoes have to be removed
Once inside, again, the sensation of to be in a holy site. The peace of the place and the fervour of the faithful help to it. This is the fourth most sacred place for Islam, after the Mecca, Medina city and the Dome of the Rock of Jerusalem. We visited the Hussein Shrine. It's repeated the devotion scenes like yesterday in Ruqayya mosque. Next we went in the courtyard and could be during the pray call of midday. Both domes, one of the Clocks and the Treasure, contrast with open space of the explanade.
People express honest devotion inside the shrine
Courtyard of the mosque
Courtyard of Umayyad mosque and the Clocks Dome, constructed in the Century XVIII
Inside the pary area, we visited the Saint John Baptisp shrine and we saw the dome with the key names of Islam.
The ground of the mosque is covered by a lot of confortable carpets
John the Baptist shrine was made by marble and is illuminating by green lights
Dome of the Eagle. It have some names in arabic, like Allah and Muhammad
The man in the south gate put the Yolanda tunic away, and invited us to take him a photo. His age and affection impressed us.
The kind man in one of the exits of the mosque
Returning to the souq. We crossed few women path who had the face completly hide. Fortunately, they are an exception but unmistakable testimony of the way that women must walk to advance in the arab world. Again, we were surprised with the lights effects in the ceiling of the covered souq. Finally, before have lunch, we visited some damascene houses, a brief walk through small gardens and courtyards, due the most of the rooms are closed.
Inner courtyard of Beit Barudi
We had lunch in the prestigious Alissar restaurant, in the christian quarter of the Old City. The food was very good and not expensive (400 SYP, $8), but we did something bad because they ignored us during all the lunch, and they only been aware of our existence to disturbing us clearing the table while we tried to drink an infusion.

Returning in taxi to the hotel, in order to a sauna "siesta", but it was good to recover us. We decide to have dinner in the hotel, a good election. A little expensive for syrian standars (700 SYP) but cutlets and the lamb leg with aromatic rice was worth the price.

Tomorrow we'll try to gain a day over the preview itinerary visiting Baalbeck and continue the way towards to Hama, without sleep in Lebanon that is expensive. The day will bring us two border passes with their two processes.