Middle East Trip 2003: Syria | Lebanon | Jordan | Palestine The Palestinian-Israeli conflict Travelogue
Day 05 - Baalbeck (Lebanon)
24-09-2003
The new day is considered complicated : we thought go out Damascus, cross the border with Lebanon and arrive to Baalbeck to visit the famous Temples of Jupiter and Baccus. We want to return to Syria after the visit, by other border to cut down the distance to Hama.

We went to Baremke station by taxi (100 SYP) to take a shared service taxi with destination to Lebanon. The experience is more complicated than in Amman. The area of taxis to Lebanon and Jordan are in a place on which we entered after a brief inspection of the luggage. Outside this place a lot of taxis drivers hungried of customers rushed at us. Inside the situation is worse: a gang os drivers insisting on take our luggages to carry on them to the car, and we insisting on not give away it, until we had decided on which car to go. Finally, the options are limited and we must treat with the first of the queue. We negociated with the same manner of the former times, to buy the back free seat to go more confortable. The treating made us to change the luggage of car more than a time. Once conclused (900 SYP, 300 per seat), we waited for a while until appeared two passengers more to the front seats car. While a couple of kids approached to us trying to sell us chewing gums or sweets. After to be a little tiresome, we bought some chewing gums and gave them a cap. The taxi driver disliked it and grabbed it. We suppose the cap will be a gift for the driver's son.
Baremke station. Waiting in order to full the service taxi with all the passengers
Few kilometres away from Damascus, we arrived to the Lebanon border and new entry and exit processes. Fortunately, we obtained a free transit visa for Lebanon, to stays less than 48 hours. No problems in these border posts. We left one of the passengers and we continued the trip. In the photo is possible to see the grabbed cap.
Leaving Syria
Border of Lebanon
Inside the taxi
Lebanon landscape is likeness the sirian, except for some ads in the roads of prohibited products in Syria like Pepsi, etc. We crossed some military checkpoints and we saw other times simbols, more violents.When a country is richer, the poors are more poors, and whe could feel the precariuos camps the land workers, the most of them are palestinian refugees and inmigrants of other more disadvantaged areas.
A curious shop on the road to Baalbek
A military training camp
The tents of a refugee camp
Next two hours and a half of trip, we arrived to Baalbeck, a small village but noisy, where to visit, maybe, the best conserved roman ruins in the world. We bought the tickets (450 SYP each one) and they allowed us leave the luggage into the tickets office. The only building in goog conditions is the Baccus temple and the six famous columns of the Jupiter temple.The dimensions are espectacular and it makes people seem like ants around the ruins.
A figure of Baalbek before to be ruins
Famous group of columns of Jupiter temple of Baalbek
Baccus Temple
At the exit of the area we have the problem to gou out there. The transport in Baalbeck is organized in a "garage", adn we went there, Apparently, the service taxis with destination to north border, don't drive later than midday and a private taxi spend an exhorbitant price (3500 SYP), so thank you to the help of a kind merchant we had two seats in a local van which took us to the Qaa border only for 100 SYP, with the inconvenient of to pass through nobody land by walking.
In Baalbek, trying to obtain a taxi to the sirian border
Inside the service taxi to Syria
Finally, the distant to walk is shorter than we expected, less than 300 meters and after carried on the luggage by the sand path, we arrived to the sirian post. Nobody speaks english here and even they are surprised because our visa have multiples entries condition, indispensable requirement and imposible to obtain at the moment. After the surprise of the inmigration agent fot to have the documents in order, the tension was broke with the habitual "Madrid, Real Madrid, Good, Good" and a smile ends with the tense wait. Even though we aren't football fans, this time, the Real Madrid made easier the stuff in the remote border post between Lebanon and Syria. In the syrian side, remains the difficult task to find transport to Hama, and the problem is that it become to get dark. We tried to take a service taxi to Homs, but it was impossible to fit into the van with our luggages, so we had to negociate with the few taxi drivers that were there. In view of the remote of the place and the hour so late, we got for 12$ something that seems a private taxi and direct to Hama. But it wasn't like we expected. The habitual itinerary of go in and go out of passengers and nothing liek direct trip, the trip finnished in the centre of Homs, and there we changed to another taxi which took us to Hama. The protests for the evident fraud didn't have result, the best is not to make angry...
Inside the taxi going to Hama
We arrived to Hama at night, and we had to take another taxi to Cairo hotel Cairo in the centre by 25 SYP, a very cheap lodge on the style of Lonely Planet guides, where for 450 SYP we had a tumbledown room and with not very clean sheets. The advantage of this hotel is that they organizate cheap tours to visit the castle of Krak of the Chavaliers, a place with difficult access by public transportation, only by $7 per people. The dinner was in a restaurant near the river, was very confusing because the communication was imposible. The bill was 440 SYP, almost the same we had payed by the room. We went to sleep after a very long day and after to take a photo of the famous norias of the city.
The norias of Hama