Middle East Trip 2003: Syria | Lebanon | Jordan | Palestine The Palestinian-Israeli conflict Travelogue
Day 15 - Ramallah
04-10-2003
We went by car to the Qalandia checkpoint, from where we used a sahred taxi (sherut) to Ramallah, capital of the Palestinian National Authority. On the way we stopped briefly in the near viewpoint of the Mount of the Olives to take a photo to the Dome of the Rock, the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the exterior walls with the sun shining over the golden dome. Today, we don't think about visit the esplanade because it's saturday and the jews don't allow any activity.
Old City of Jerusalem
Jerusalem from the viewpoint of the Mount of the Olives
Next our arrive to Ramallah, we met with Rouhi in the main square of the city, where there is a big fountain with stone lions very characteristic. This square, besides the commercial centre, is the usual place for demostrations in favour of the end of the occupation. It's interesting to see as still suffering a commercial and economic blockage, the life continues and technologial companies are implanted in the region.
Main square of Ramallah, place of beginning of the most of the demostrations of the people
One of the street that pass near the main square
It was a surprise to see technological companies site in Ramallah
Going for a walk to the Mukata, the headquarters of the National Authority Palestine and the residence of their leader Yasser Arafat. The place has transformed into a symbol of the palestinian resistance, because Arafat is confined in its interior for three years. The place have suffered multiples attacks with israelies tanks and bulldozers, that have left the building practically demolished. The effects of the war are clearly visible, with bursts of machine guns marked on the facades of the buildings. Rouhi requests permission to visit the interior of the complex and they tell us we have to return in two hours that will be quite calmer.
Status of destruction of the Headquarters of the Palestine Authority in Ramallah. The israeli army destroyed with tanks and bulldozers lmost all the complex two years ago.
Status of the building after the demolition by the israeli soldiers
From outside of the complex, it's possible to see the marks of the balls of the guns in the building where Yasser Arafat lives. Also, we saw the water deposits within they fight against the provision cuts
We decided to visit the near one Surda checkpoint, another place where the reality of humiliation and misery of the palestinian people is very present. Better defined as "blocked road" due to at the present time there aren't israelis soldiers in the suburbs. The objective of this point is to cut the road with big concrete blocks, to deny the circulation of cars. In this case, the blockage is double, since the intermediate area is only passable on foot or a cart thrown by animals as happen with elder people. We walked 500 meters between both blocks and here we saw several daily images as people carrying on furniture, Red Crescent post to assist the faintnesses. A graffiti that claims the right of education and the end of the occupation gets our attention . The checkpoint of Surda is located in the most important access to the Palestine University and impedes in many occasions the access to its students.
Surda checkpoint, in the north of Ramallah. Best defined like 'blocked road', as now there aren't israeli soldiers in the surrounders. The target of this point is to cut the road with big concrete blocks, so that, the cars can't drive on this road. The habit way in this situations is tl leave the car, pass by walkand take another car in the other part of the road
Red Moon Crescent (Palestine equivalent to Red Cross) have installed a little tent for first aids in the 'blocking' area in order to take care of emergencies. It's important to remember that this road connects Ramallah with a lot of villages where ambulances, food truck,etc can't access. Everything must to pass by walk through this deplorable precipice
According to many, the blockade of the Surda road is due to the intention to difficult the access of the students from Ramallah to the <A HREF='http://www.birzeit.edu'> Birzeit University </A>. It's obvious the interest of the palestinian in the care and improve of their education, something of which they feel fairly proud. This graffiti in the Surda road demands the right of education and the end of the ocuppation. The University of Birzeit is accomplishing a <A HREF='http://right2edu.birzeit.edu/checkpointbackground.htm'>awareness campaing</A> about the checkpoints and the problems to pass through it by students and teachers
Next to eat something in the centre of Ramallah, we went to the Mukata, where the guards allowed us to enter to the interior. We tried Arafat to receive us, but they commented us it's quite difficult because in these moments he was very busy. Later we would understand the authentic reason.
Our friend Rouhi, managed to access inside the complex of the Mukata'a
Rouhi explained us details of the daily life in Mukatta'a. In this area, is where Yasser Arafat congregates to the press for his comunications
The gate of the Mukatta'a where Yasser Arafat uses to make his press release
Before leave Ramallah, Rouhi, in his indefatigable generosity, invited us to have a snack, some fantastic candies of cheese and punmpkin (of which we don't remember the name). When began the sunset, we took a shared taxi to the checkpoint of Qalandia. Inside the taxi where the news runs as the gunpowder : a Palestian young woman had exploded herself a couple of hours ago in a attack in the restaurant Maxim's of Haifa. The first figures are more than 20 deads. All felt bad, with a stanger mix of feelings, in one hand the understanding of this people's desperation, and a tremendous sadness for the death of innocent victims independently of the decree they are, and in the other hand, for us, because we didn't know what could happen with us in the checkpoint, where is possible the israeli soldiers close it, as usual in these cases. In this conflict it's a habitual practice the collective punishment by the israeli army in front of these situations. Finally, it seems that we are luky and they allow us to pass through the checkpoint very quickly. We separated of Rouhi, trusting see him again in the future, either in USA, Spain or Palestine. Without a doubt, Palestine without him would not have been the same thing.

Other two vehicle changes more and we were healthy and safe in Jerusalem. In TV it hadn't spoken of another thing, and all the channels emited from the Mukata gate, where we have been few hours before in complety lonely. A military operation is feared on Ramallah as reprisal. Towards several months that it didn't happen anything like this and we were happy that it has been the last day of our stay here. Before going to bed, we went to our frecuented cybercafe of the Old City to send emails to the family and friends tranquilizing them for that happened.

We would like to hear from you in the Guestbook © David Guerrero / Yolanda Rodriguez 2003